including when it zooms.
Here there are many pictures by this camera have a look
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I hope it helps !!!!!!
I'm having trouble with my Digital camera. The camera auto assigns names to each picture. Then when I move the pictures from the SD card to the computer, it keeps the same name. The camera will then auto assign the same names as the old pictures when the SD card is clean. Then when i try and put those pictures on the computer, I have different pictures with the same name. I don't want to have to change the name of each picture one at a time. Any way to fix this?
You have to activate the sequential file naming. This should be the default setting. This setting is usually set in the camera setup menu
Answer by fhotoace on 02 Jan 2010 11:46:02i haven't bought an sb600 yet because i need to know that i can use it wirelessly on my D40 i want it for shooting skateboarding and place it under the subject and shoot at a distance. i have read alot of forums and am really confused i just want a simple explanation of what to do thanks
Your embbed camera flash will act as a commander for the external flash unit. This means that you will actually flash both flashes but only the SB600 will work
to do this you need to do basically two things.
- on your D40 you need to find a menu that is something like "Flash Control". Inside of that you have to set your flash to act as a Commander. Usually there is C and a flash icon.
- on your SB600 you have to set it to REMOTE. I cannot help you on this because i down own one.
Good luck
The D40 itself doesn't allow for wireless flash use, but if you get an SU-800(~$250, I know, sucks) unit you can.
The better idea is to get a used D70(~$250-$350), which will lets you use onboard flash as commander. You also get a lot more features over the D40.
I want to get a canon, but I don't understand the differences between these 2 series of canon cameras.
-- Also another question i have is...
Do the Canon Digital cameras do a beauty shot (make your face look flawless and pretty) type thing like the samsung cameras do?
help would be really appreciated :) thanks!
The Canon website supplies a lot of specs and information about their cameras, and even a comparison function. It is best if you go study them on there.
As to the "beauty shot", my advice is the same as for any and all effects done in-camera:
DON'T DO IT !!!
Imagine if you just happen to take the best photo you ever took - surely you would want to have it in all its glory, right?
Always set your camera to biggest size, best quality (and to color).
That way, you start with the best possible photo as your original.
Then you make a copy and edit it to your heart's content.
You have much better control over any editing on your computer, even something as simple as b&w will look MUCH better when it was processed properly instead of in camera.
You can do all sorts of things to it PLUS you get to keep your original.
Your question peaked my curiosity so I took two Canons, the Canon PowerShot A480 and
Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS. They have the same mega pixels and I suspect the same sensor inside of them.
Below is a link that lists the features and specs side by side.
Here are a few differences:
PowerShot A480 --- SD 1200 IS
37mm - 122mm --- 35mm - 105mm < Zoom range
LCD --- LCD and optical viewfinder
uses AA batteries --- Lithium-Ion NB-6L battery & charger
Hope this helps.
Mark
I need help choosing one! They both look good and I need Help!
SD780 IS
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SD940 IS
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If you want to go with wide angle lenses then go for Canon PowerShot SD940IS otherwise Canon PowerShot SD780IS is a real good options i recommend.
Answer by niks on 01 Jan 2010 08:27:17Canon PowerShot SD780
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i was looking into the Kodak EasyShare or Nikon Coolpix but i have no idea what is good or not. please help!
Some questions to ask yourself before you go shopping:
* What do you need the camera for?
* What type of photography will you be doing? (portraits, landscapes, macro, sports)
* What conditions will you be largely photographing in? (indoors, outdoors, low light, bright light)
* Will you largely stay in auto mode or do you want to learn the art of photography?
* What experience level do you have with cameras?
* What type of features are you looking for? (long zoom, image stabilization, large LCD display etc)
* How important is size and portability to you?
* What is your budget?
Read more: [URL Truncated]
How much do you plan to spend? Answer in additional comments.
Answer by Vintage Music on 01 Jan 2010 10:04:01Nikon, Canon, Sony is a top brand of Digital camera. I would suggestion these good quality Digital cameras :
1.Nikon Coolpix S70 : 12.1MP, 5x wide-angle Zoom-NIKKOR glass lens, 5-way VR image stabilization system, 3.5-inch touch-panel OLED with Clear Color Display, Record 720p HD movies with sound. etc.
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3. Nikon Coolpix S570 : 12MP, 5x wide-angle Zoom-NIKKOR glass lens, 2.7-inch high-resolution LCD, Scene Auto Selector and Smart Portrait System, etc.
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3.Canon PowerShot SD780IS : 12.1MP, 3x optical zoom lens with Optical Image Stabilizer, 2.5-inch widescreen PureColor LCD II screen, Record video in beautiful high definition, Face Detection Self-Timer, Intelligent Contrast Correction, Red-eye Correction, etc.
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4.Canon PowerShot SD1200IS : 10MP, 3x optical zoom, 2.5-inch PureColor LCD II screen, DIGIC 4 Image Processor with evolved Face Detection Technology; Face Detection Self-timer, etc.
I am going on a class trip and i was looking for a camera that is pocket-size to use instead of my Nikon D60. I am looking for a camera that would be less than $400 (U.S. Dollars) but make a great point and shoot camera for on the go. I am looking at like a Nikon cool-pix or a Canon maybe but i don't know which model to choose. I am open to other camera names too. I NEED HELP! Please help me answer my question?
This camera is a little more than 400.00 but it takes amazing pictures. Canon G10, it's a little bigger and heavier than my canon a570is, but not that noticeable. It also has 14mp and manual controls if you need too. Go to G10 utube tutorials to see this camera.
Answer by snowwillow20 on 01 Jan 2010 11:48:11you can consider this one really good
Canon PowerShot SX200IS
- 12.1-megapixel CCD captures enough detail for photo-quality poster-size prints
- 12x optical zoom with Optical Image Stabilizer; 28mm wide-angle lens
- HD movie shooting capability plus HDMI output
- 3.0-inch LCD screen; Face Detection, Blink Detection
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also you might like Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ35
- 12.1-megapixel resolution
- 27mm wide-angle Leica DC Vario-Elmarit lens; 18x optical zoom with POWER O.I.S.
- HD movies with 1280 x 720-pixel resolution; AVCHD Lite format
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I also suggest to go with Canon PowerShot SX200IS really good camera i own it.
Answer by Nilay P on 01 Jan 2010 12:01:56for your condition i recommend u see here more model to choose and low price including detail and review for decide too.
[astore.amazon.com/best-inexpensive
-digital-camera-low-price-20]
I would suggestion these good quality compact cameras with price under $400 and has feature HD Movie records :
1.Nikon Coolpix S70 : 12.1MP, 5x wide-angle Zoom-NIKKOR glass lens; 5-way VR image stabilization system, 3.5-inch touch-panel OLED with Clear Color Display, Record 720p HD movies with sound, etc.
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2.Canon PowerShot SX200IS : 12 MP, 12x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom, 3.0-inch LCD, HD movie shooting capability, etc.
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3.Sony Cyber-shot DSC-T500 : 10.1-megapixel, 5x optical zoom lens, 3.5-inch LCD touch-screen display, HD Movie Mode records 720p high definition video, Face Detection technology, etc.
I currently own an Olympus sp-51ouz ([URL Truncated]
and it only has 7.1 mega pixels. It has been a good camera except the quality of indoor pictures and some outdoor pictures is far from excellent. I would like to get a camera that has a much better picture quality, because I take pictures all the time. My pictures seem to have a gritty look, I'm not sure how to explain it. I think it is time for me to get a new digital camera.
There is a Panasonic which is really nice or coolpix.
Answer by Omar on 01 Jan 2010 12:57:09I suggest to you an entry level DSLR either by Nikon or Canon. $500 is a lot of money to spend on a point and shoot. Nikon and Canon have a kit where the DSLR camera comes with lens less than $500-.
Answer by Vintage Music on 01 Jan 2010 01:28:44I just bought a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS3 and the only complaint I have is the software it comes with and the way it uploads videos to your PC. I'm just using my old software and I'm going to figure out a solution to the video thing, but otherwise, I love this camera. It takes great pictures, has a multitude of scene modes, features, etc. The zoom is incredible (for what I'm used to, anyway) and the controls are pretty basic. Good luck!
Answer by Mozilla on 02 Jan 2010 09:47:56Try Checking Here :
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[URL Truncated]
Hope I Helped :)
Hi i have a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-S980 , i want my pictures to have a Date on them when i take photo. Can anyone tell me where could the option for enabling this be . Couse at the moment there is no Date on the photos i take .
Thanks in advance
You will have to look in your user manual.
Since ALL image files contain that information in the files EXIF data, there is really no reason to put a red/orange alphanumeric imprint on the actual print you make. Those dates really detract from the over all excellence of the image
If it ever becomes necessary to know the date a certain file was taken, that information is viewable using the file manager on your computer. What I do is use a soft graphite lead pencil to place the file number and date on the back of each print. If you put all your image files into one file folder and do not attempt to create separate file folders for each shoot and sub-folders for various subjects shot at the time, yes, I can see why sacrificing part of your image to imprint the date and time may make sense.
If they are AF lens,yes they will fit both but they will not auto focus on the D5000 unless they are AF-I or AF-S lens. If they are old manual focus lens they will fit both but won't auto focus on ether camera.
Answer by brian_rmsy on 03 Jan 2010 04:42:15How old are those Nikkor lenses from your old Nikon film SLR? There are many generations and they work differently.
The very first generation, from the Nikon F and F2 era, so called pre-AI lens, will mount into the D5000, but it will be all manual mode, there will be no metering or anything. It will not go into D90, doing so damages the camera.
The AI/AI-S lens, or CPU-less manual focus lens, will work on both camera, but still, full manual mode and manual focus.
If your old lens autofocuses on your old camera, and your camera isn't F3AF, chances are that it will work the same on the D90. While it'll work on D5000, it won't autofocus.
Don't want to switch lenses but want quality shots! Must be easy to use I guess.
There are several "bridge" cameras out there. These are point and shoot devices with nearly full control of everything, usually except manual focus. Some boast focus but really don't have it.
Here's a good place to begin your research.
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Here:
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Good Luck
Look for one that has at least a 20x optical zoom lens. That will at least give you some versatility since you do not want a camera that uses interchangeable lenses
The problem is that you will still have a tiny sensor. Sensor size is what produces high quality shots. If you really want to learn how to be a photographer, be sure the camera you buy allows you to adjust both the aperture and shutter speed so you have control over the exposures.
I'd say that you could get a low range DSLR if you don't need a very wide zoom range. A EOS 500D, D3000, K-m, etc. If you are on a tighter budget, you could get a previous generation DSLR (2008) Like the E420, D40, Canon 400D-500D...
That the camera has interchangeable lenses, doesn't mean that you have to change them. A kit lens is good, you can work with just that.
Actually, most (entry level) DSLRs are easy to use. It may be a harder start, but once you get used, it won't be hard to use. I guess you want to learn some photography... If you don't want, use PRogram mode and forget; although it will be just P&S then.
You will have a much better sensor and less noise than bridges. You may not have an ultrazoom (you can buy Body Only and a ultrazoom lens) and it may not be as compact, but it's worth it.
I've been looking into battery grips and I'm wondering if one exists for my camera, since I've seized to see one for it.
Battery grips are for DSLRs, not for bridge cameras.
Answer by selina_555 on 03 Jan 2010 11:51:55There used to be battery/vertical grips for the higher end point and shoot cameras, but I haven't seen one in many years. That was when a DSLR was out of reach of most of the population, and a camera like yours was $1,000 by itself.
Now, you can attach something like a Quantum Compact Battery 1 to the tripod socket of the camera, but you get no shooting controls. Just a large battery hanging on the bottom of your camera. I used to do this with a Nikon Coolpix 5000, pretty good camera for it's day and age, but battery life was horrible. Even with the available vertical/battery grip, you couldn't get much more than 200 shots out of the Nikon batteries. With the big Quantum battery, I could shoot for a couple days, plus it would power the external flash at the same time!
Can someone explain to me the M/S/A/P dial settings?
What they do and how to use them.
Thanks (:
I would look in the manual, but it's in french -.-
They are:
M -- Manual, which means you set aperture and shutter speed
S -- Shutter priority, which means you set the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture
A -- Aperture priority, which means you choose the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed
P -- Program, which means the camera handles both aperture and shutter
Your manual will have details. It's the best place to learn the details of operating your camera.
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There is a English version of the manual. It's definitely worthwhile reading it.
ASM are considered the "creative modes" where you actually take control of the camera's parameters.
A - is aperture priority, this is used when you want to control depth of field
S - is shutter priority, this is used when you need to control the shutter speed. Useful for when you want to create certain motion effects.
M - full control over exposure, you control both aperture and shutter speed, and thus the exposure of each frame. You can deliberately over or underexpose. Though this is possible in both A and S modes by means of Exposure Compensation.
P is program mode, and I think this mode isn't too handy. You have exposure compensation, but thats all you can do.
For me ASM modes are the only ones I bother using, the rest is pretty useless.
the screen of my camera (canon PowerShot A590)
i was carrying it around in my bag and the screen go dented and when you go to take the picture you can barley see the image but you can upload it to a computer and see it just fine.
i was wondering if it was worth fixing or if i should just buy a new one?
uhm its just a simple LCD u could probably get one for about $50 and get installed for like $30? around their but it also matters how much you payed for the camera to see if its worth it and as long as the lense and everything connected to the LCD work your fine
Answer by madmax18765 on 02 Jan 2010 06:03:54How to get rid of the black bars from the top and bottom of a video? Usually there on the side of a video, but when i record on my camera there also on the top and bottom. By the way i have an sd780
do you have final cut or adobe premiere? if not or so you need a video editor/movie maker to crop and format the video
Answer by madmax18765 on 02 Jan 2010 06:04:47also, how far do i have to spin the film into the camera to begin taking pictures? sorry if that doesn't make since.. i'm new to this D:
since the film is most likely in a canister, all you are touching is the leader of the film. normally in most film cameras, once you put the leader in the slot of the take up spool. you just need to turn it maybe half a turn or so to make sure that caught properly. then close the back. and advance the film maybe once or twice. good luck and good shooting.
Answer by googleplex on 02 Jan 2010 08:09:36Hey,
You touched your film? Ofcourse..if you didn't, you wouldn't be able to load it in your camera heh.
I usually take 3 pictures with the back opened, then 1 with the back closed so I see if it's working properly.
Nothing. The leader is usually discarded after processing and smudges or fingerprints are washed away by processing.
I crank it once, and see if it's well and tighty held by the transport mechanism. Then close the back and advance it once more, looking at the rewind lever, because it indicates if the film is being transported well. Usually, the safe side for not getting a cut away or ruined picture is 2-3 frames.
If you load taking up less film at loading, you will be able to shoot some exposures more. So on a 36 exp roll, you could get 39-40 at maximum.
I'm looking for a camera.. preferably one that is 100-150$$ that can be found at Target, Walmart, Office Max, or Best Buy. One that is very durable and doesn't break easily. One with at least 9 mp's, and at least 2 times optical zoom. One that looks "hip" and that comes in dark blue, red, or green. Thanks :)
Canon SD1200 IS
Answer by Vintage Music on 02 Jan 2010 09:23:23Canon ISUX 200 IS.
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Canon SD1200is is a good camera for your budget.Good quality, good image quality.
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Canon PowerShot A1100 12MP Digital Camera - $129
(free 2 GB SD card included, plus free shipping)
Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS 10MP Digital ELPH Camera - $149
(free 2 GB SD card included, plus free shipping)
Below are 2 links to deals on these cameras at buydig.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Canon PowerShot SD1200IS 10 MP Digital Camera with 3x Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 2.5-inch LCD great camera and good quality picture
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also cam consider this one
Canon PowerShot A480 10 MP Digital Camera with 3.3x Optical Zoom and 2.5-inch LCD
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How long does it take for a Canon PowerShot SD1200 IS Rechargeable Lithium-ion Battery NB-6L to charge in a single charge??? Thanks a bundle!!!
Plug it in and let it charge overnight. There is circuitry to cut off the charging when the battery is fully charged.
Answer by Alan on 04 Jan 2010 04:33:06Hi there, I took some photos on a disposable camera this time last year and had a few photos left, so I quickly snapped my boyfriend as he came out of the shower, I found this hilarious he did not find it as funny, took the camera off of me, used up the last few photos on me yelling at him to give the camera back haha but then he threw the camera really hard into the wall. Nothing broke off of it though but it hit the wall very hard!
My dilemma is this, I REALLY want the photos off of it but will a place like tesco develop the naked photo? Should I warn the before hand? And also would the camera being smashed against the wall have damaged the film in anyway? As I don't want to spend money getting them developed if they're not going to come out or i'm going to get in trouble for the nude photo of my boyfriend haha!
Any advice on my little problem would be great thank you!
I would just chuck it away.
At the very least, naked pictures would be very offensive to whoever develops the film, and you could find yourself getting reported for indecency or something similar.
I'm guessing there's nothing too important on that film or you would have had it developed months ago..... just bin it.
1) yes they will develop it. Its all done by machine anyway. SO long as the pics are not illegal or show signs of abuse in any form, they will develop them... im sure ive developed worse! lol
2) If you get NO pictures from the process... you will only be charged a minimal amount (couple of pounds)
3) so long as the camera didnt break & allow any light into the main body of the camera... it will be ok.
If you don't really care about the other photos, then destroy the camera and the film in it. I have heard of stories where photos have found a way outside of a lab and I do not mean the owner of the photos leaving with them.
My 2 cents.
Mark
I've had this camera since the 27th. I went through the batteries that it came with, and then put some Duracell batteries in. 2 AA batteries are all it takes. Well, the batteries died today, and I decided to put in some rechargeable duracell batteries. Now, these batteries were all fully charged and everything. None of them worked. I put them in, right position and everything, and the camera simply refused to turn on. So I put in some duracell batteries, non rechargeable, and it still wouldn't work. I don't know what to do. Is anyone else having this problem, and how do I fix it?
Take it back now. It is still under warranty. Let the dealer/factory work it out.
Answer by El on 06 Jan 2010 09:04:15I have a new Nikon D3000 and my grandpa gave me his old lenses like a macro wide angle ETC. i have a vivitar 100-300mm zoom f5 and when i turn the first ring on the lens it doesn't do anything but on all the other lenses it does something and i cannot change the iris size and idk why. It has that lever like my kit lens by the connector when you press it it makes it open and close but on my camera it only lets me shoot in M but idk if you can do something to make it work or if you can change the settings on the camera or what. on the lens it says automatic. please help im sooo bent out of shape thinking that the lens doesn't work. Thanks for you help.
I don't know about that particular combination, but I can speak in general terms:
Often (especially with older and/or cheap gear) you are able to attach a lens, but the electricals can't communicate with each other.
If you have to use it totally manually it makes it a bit more awkward, but at least you CAN use it.
Look at it as a fun challenge, if it will work like that, you're bound to learn a lot from the exercise.
The images do not appear on the scanner and camera wizard. These shots are all full resolution (3888x something) RAW files, and about 10-11 MB each. As opposed to the other jpg's that were 3-5MB. How do I get around this?
-PLEASE HELP!
-ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED!
=]
Lets go back to the beginning.
Your camera can shoot various JPEG file resolutions and it can also shoot in RAW. I will take it you know what is in a RAW file, so I won't spend time explaining that.
Most OS's have a download you can add what will make the image files visible in both Windows Explorer and Mac's Find.
All this to say, when you only shoot in raw, you have to process each one in order to see them unless you download the free RAW converter for your OS.
Here is what the pros do. They shoot in the RAW + JPEG to capture all their images so that they can later after you get home, edit the JPEG files (this means sort, not manipulate images) and then only process the corresponding RAW image files from the best of the best.
The camera wizard isn't seeing the RAW files as anything. So you'd need to use Canon's software. EOS Utilities will do it for the direct connection to the camera, and the ZoomBrowser (Image Browser if it's a Mac) will take care of the file transfer when using a card reader.
I use ZoomBrowser EX Memory Card Utility myself. I have it set to sort images into separate folders by date taken. You can also have the program rename files as it uploads to the computer.
For processing RAW files I use Canon's DPP. [URL Truncated] It's great for a free program.
~~~~ if all else fails, use a card reader and do the drag and drop thing in My Computer.
It sounds like your computer doesn't have the required codecs for the .cr2 files that the 40D writes in RAW mode.
You need to download the current version of the Canon software, or a third party converter such as adobe DNG converter (free from Adobe website)
If you are using photoshop then you need to install the latest camera raw plug in for the version of your software, again, free from the Adobe website.
Which one's better? My budget is $700, so idk what to get. i'll pretty much be taking pictures of everything. photography is a hobby of mine, and i really love it. any other (better) suggestions are welcome :)
According to this tab [URL Truncated] there's not much difference between them apart from LCD size (d3000 bigger) and autofocus points (d3000 more points) and other minor things. If photography is a serious hobby and you want to buy Nikon, I strongly recommend the D90. More expensive but a world better, worth the investment. Or even a D80, if you can still find one. Otherwise go for the cheaper. Hope this helps.
Answer by Yoorala on 08 Jan 2010 01:12:38well I'm having hard time to pick between the Canon 28 and sigma 30.
I read a lot of information between them some said the Canon is better focus faster and can work closer to the object but the sigma is more sharper and the color is warmer and works great in low light.
so people, please tell me what do you think about them. and if you have uses any of this two, tell me what do you think! please!
I'm using a Canon 50D camera, thanks for all of you!
to casperskitty and everyone, additional information:
i would use this lens for walk around. I have a 17-50 f/2.8 but seems like it is not good enough I don't know. and the 50mm f/1.8 that i have with the 50D, the focal length is a little too much.
I doubt that the Canon auto-focus can be too much faster. As to low-light, either is going to work well for that. The f/1.4 is only about 1/3 (oh, pardon me, 2/3-I wasn't worried about the math-the point is that it isn't much of a difference) stop wider than f/1.8 and that is barely enough to make a difference which is why the less expensive f/1.8 lenses are so popular. As to the angle of view, 2mm is hardly a big difference. Even on the 50D.
I guess that if fast focusing is important then go for the Canon. If you ever intend to buy a full frame camera, like the 1D and 5D series, you won't be able to use the Sigma on them. I don't know about the Canon and its full frame compatibility. If neither of these things matter, then it doesn't matter too much which lens you choose.
I'm sure that I haven't helped much ;) But I will say that I don't own either of these lenses as I don't own a Canon.
What are you wanting a lens in this range for exactly anyway?
edit-if the 17-50/2.8 doesn't work I don't know what will. f/2.8 is only 1 stop smaller than f/1.4 and despite what another poster said, that is not much of a difference. Try it. Set your aperture and shutter speed for proper exposure. Make an exposure. Now stop down the aperture one full stop and make another exposure. Can you really see that much of a dramatic difference? Probably not. Maybe what you really need is a tripod for longer exposures.
You read my mind about posting this Q & A!!!! Well.....not exactly. But I have looked at both lens extensively. So....here we go. BTW, I have the 40d.
The 28/1.8 is excellent for its price and AGE. The Sigma will be sharper, faster, and equal in autofocus. These lenses are not ideal for Fast Focus. They are more artistic purpose-driven--thin depth of field, super sharp, etc...That being said, I would probably stay with Canon over Sigma. Now the Sigma 50/1.4....yum!!! Awesome, awesome lens!! Unmatched for $500.00.
You will get this a lot: "What are you needing lens for? Portraits? Landscapes?" Well, I hate that question too, but it is important. on the 40d and 50d--not full frame cameras (like 5d mark II), the lens will be longer in focal length because of smaller image sensor. a 50mm= 83mm. a 30mm= 48mm.
Have you looked at the great Canon 35mm/f2? It is a forgotten lens, but supposed to trump both of those. It has better center sharpness and better colors. Just a hair slower. Lets be honest though, at 1.4 what are your real needs? Your depth of field is so shallow almost all images are useless.
Last thought: Have you considered renting from LensRentals.Com? They have both of those I think...i know the SIg 30mm for sure. Plus, they give all reviews on their site once you click on lens. For 50-75 per week, you may really save yourself a big pruchase, or confirm your original thougths.
And you will always lose at least 100.00 when you buy and sell lens. Trust me, I have lost plenty : )
Here are my lenses:
Canon 10-22mm; 100mm Macro/2.8; tamron 17-50/2.8; Canon 17-40 L; Canon 70-300 IS; Canon 28-135 IS
I'd go for the Sigma after reading reviews - and it's two-thirds of a stop faster - which represents a lot of light or a considerably faster shutter speed in low-light/handheld.
Answer by Mick on 06 Jan 2010 02:36:13I have a J12 Fugi-film camera and for some reason it will not upload any of my pictures onto my computer. Now on my files it goes up to decmber 2009. Does that matter since its noe January of 2010 and if so how do I fix this
invest in a USB Card Reader (available at walmart, bestbuy, amazon etc...) for about $15
Plug the card reader into your USB Port on your computer.
Remove memory card from your camera, and insert into the Card reader.
Follow instructions from the card reader to open your memory card.
Find pictures and copy them directly to your computer's hard drive.
This will eliminate any problems that you might have with plugging the camera directly into your computer, and using the camera specific software.
how do i do it? what do i need to do? as the film is 120mm default for the diana f+ lomo, what alterations and notes do i need to keep in mind?
cheers
if anyone has the answer, how many clicks/turns are there to get from one shot to the other?
Below is are some links to some websites that should be of assistance.
Hope this helps.
Mark
You can't load 220 film in the Diana. Well, you could, but you would end up with pictures way out of focus and a white streak across each frame.
220 film is the same as 120 film without the paper backing and twice as long.
That means that when you look through the frame counter window, you will not see frame numbers, you will see bare film. DOH!
On top of that, without the paper backing, you need a special pressure plate to compensate for the lack of paper backing, otherwise the film is now at a different distance from the lens than with 120 film. Of course, that makes it even lower lomography :).
If you knew exactly how far to wind the film to advance one frame at a time because now you have no counters printed on the backing paper, you could cover up the hole with layers of black tape and you would be good to go.
Otherwise, stick to 120 film
I suppose it would be possible to do this, but for what purpose?
Unless you have a stash of 220 film that somebody gave you, there is little advantage to shooting 220 film instead of 120 film. There are many disadvantages.
The 220 roll is the same diameter as the 120 roll of film. They are able to get the longer roll by getting rid of the paper backing and attaching a paper leader and trailer to the film.
Advantages:
roll is twice as long, so you theoretically could get twice as many photos out of a single roll.
Disadvantages:
With no paper backing, you need to cover up the counter window.
With no paper backing, you have to come up with a system to advance the film. (turns or clicks of film winder)
With no counter, you won't get twice the number of frames. I would guess you might get 4-6 extra frames.
Without the paper backing, it theoretically changes the film plane so the focus will be off, but I doubt this would be too much of a problem. This is a Diana afterall...
It might be worth experimenting with, just to see if you can do it, but I wouldn't recommend trying it as a standard method of shooting film.
For more tips for Diana+, please visit my website:
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For how to videos for Diana and other lo-fi cameras, check out my youtube channel:
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Nikon D3000
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Canon EOS 1000D
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I'm going to buy one of them, which would you say is better?
I would buy the Nikon but that's because i already have many compatible Nikon lenses and flashguns.
They are both equally able cameras. see what your friends have and get the same brand so you can borrow their lenses.
Read the reviews like those on imaging-resource.com
Being a Nikon man, I'd have to go for the Nikon D3000.It's a nice little entry level camera.But then again,I'm sure the Canon is a worthy camera as well. Most pros shoot with Nikon's & Canons.
Both of these are decent cameras that should give you years of use.
nikon because Nikon's lenses are a lot better made
Answer by JGomes on 05 Jan 2010 02:15:31Hi there!
Well I use a Nikon d40, d60, and d90. But I don't really care between Cannon or Nikon. I would prefer the d3000 still. The 1000d is an older series and will soon be gone.
They are close to the same stats but the D3000 is easier to learn and is a better all around camera.
neither is probably better. And if one is, a beginner photographer would probably not be able to tell the difference.
Answer by mister-damus on 05 Jan 2010 02:24:38Both are good camera. If you want Live view function to view subject on lcd monitor, Canon EOS 1000D is your good choice
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but if you don't mind that I would recommend Nikon D3000 which more 11 point auto focus ( Canon EOS 1000D - 3 point auto focus) and bigger 3" lcd screen.
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a place that develops film.
Answer by mister-damus on 05 Jan 2010 03:04:33I have a Casio Exilim and i have pictures on my internal memory and i need to transfer them to the memory card. Anyone know how?
there might be an option in the menu somewhere. otherwise, just transfer them using a data cable to your computer.
Answer by Kam on 05 Jan 2010 03:09:36Hook camera to USB link on PC with your USB cable (you must have got one with the camera. Open camera internal memory files and download to my pictures then back to memory card via a card reader. But why not just store them on your PC anyway. You can send them to your phone etcthis way, and save space on your valuable memory card.
Answer by ronnie14848 on 05 Jan 2010 03:38:20You can't transfer from camera memory to card memory in-camera because inserting a card 'disconnects' the internal storage. You must get a USB cable or print using PICT bridge direct from the camera.
That is my answer from your OTHER identical question you've just asked. Give us a chance to answer your questions, please.
I would like to have music on my SD card for usage and my computer/printer doesn't have an SD card slot D;
No..Just for my Dsi :)
Go to my computer if you are using windows and if your card is listed then there you go!
Answer by Peter P on 05 Jan 2010 04:54:14You will just have to buy a USB 2.0 card reader (less than $10)
If your cameras memory card can be seen by the file manager on your computer as a removable drive, you can just drag and drop them to your cameras memory card, but for what purpose? Are you expecting the camera to play music?
ok, so i have this 4gig scandisk sd card, and when i put it in my camera which worked perfectly fine before with it in, it locks on the start up "welcome" screen..
this is all it does, and it wont shut off unless i open the battery door... please help..
what i can do/what is wrong with it would be greatly appreciated..
Without knowing what camera and model number, we don't have a clue.
There is a possibility that your camera cannot read or write to a SDHC card, but you have to use only SD cards (2 gb or smaller)
Go through all your booklets that came with the cam to find troubleshooting. If this fails, visit the manufacturer website for more info online, or else you may have to call up the people you bought the cam from and ask them.
Is the card all the way in, it should click when pressed down. Is the little switch on the card on lock or unlock? Is there dirt in the card slot? Etc
Should I go with Sandisk 4GB Class 2 or Sandisk Ultra 2GB which is cheaper. Just got my first camera and I am not sure which one I should chose. Does Ultra really make a difference?
Yes it does make a difference. But only if your camera is fast enough to make use of it, such as those profesional dslr cameras.
If it's a compact camera, usually Class 2 is enough, as long as you don't run around shooting 30 picture in 1 minute.
I'd stick to Class 4 or Class 6, just to get that peace of mind to not get slowed down by my memory card.
Ultra has faster transfer rate. Saves the data/photos faster.
It will make a difference only if your camera can shoot really fast like professional cameras. If its just point and shoot, I dont think it would make a difference.
Also make sure your camera is compatible with size capacity of the memory card. Older digital cameras can only read up to 2gb.
Dont pay for class 4 or 6 if it is of no benefit for your camera. You didnt mention a model number or I would have looked it up.
As for 2G or 4G its a personal choice. I only use 1G cards for this reason. My 1G card holds 300 photos so a 4G card would hold 1200 photos. If my 4G card is corrupted or damaged I would lose 1200 photos. By using 4 - 1G cards if 1 is corrupted or damaged I only lose 300 photos and I still have 900 photos. Card size is purely a personal preference.
I would get the Ultra and if you want the 4GB of storage then pay the extra. I just looked it up and it was about $25 at Adorama. I use either the Ultra or the Extreme Sandisk cards, I like that they are faster and possibly help your camera perform better and can reduce battery drain.
I listed links to some photo dealers below so you can see your price options.
Hope this helps.
Mark
What make and model camera do you have? No, they are not all the same.
Answer by stan l on 08 Jan 2010 10:55:03I am going to be a still photographer on movie sets. I want to buy either a Nikon or Canon that is great in low lighting conditions. I want to stay under 3,000 dollars. Also I have small hands so ideally I don't want a big heavy body. Suggestions?
Is the $3,000 for everything, or just the camera body? Right now, the best thing you could get is the Nikon D700 ($2,400-$2,500) and lenses to match. I'm thinking the 16-35, 24-70, and 70-200, all f/2.8. Maybe the 14mm f/2.8 too.
It is not a huge camera, but it isn't a Canon Rebel either.
If you want to stay under $3000 and low light performance is essential then I think clearly the D700 is the camera to go with, it will cost you about $2400 for the camera body only.
You will want lenses that can also help you in low light. If you get a zoom look for one that has a low aperture available.
Below are some links to reviews of the Nikon D700 and some photo dealers.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Nikon D700 is a great full frame sensor camera for your budget. Fast, accurate 51-point AF system; 3D Focus Tracking and two Live View shooting modes Base ISO range from 200-6400 can be expanded to range from ISO 100 (Lo-1) to 25,600 (Hi-2) great for low light.Fast 0.12-second start-up speed
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A person that is going to be the photographer on a movie set, with a budget of 3 grand for the body should know the answer to this. Even if you find the camera you want, you are going to find out that the shutter sound is going to get picked up by boom mics if this is a real movie. Then you've got to find out how to quiet the shutter. What will you do? What do you need? I know the answer, let's see if you can figure it out.
Answer by Sound Labs on 07 Jan 2010 10:12:52You need a bigger budget! You are not going to get the equipment you need within a $3000 budget.
Answer by Crim Liar on 07 Jan 2010 10:36:41An EOS 7D. The video mode will be handy as well for short 'making of' clips.
Answer by Paul R on 08 Jan 2010 04:58:59Yeah right.
If you were going to be shooting the stills for movies then believe me you would already know what equipment you would need. In fact to get the job in the first place you would have the equipment and necessary skills and experience already.
Run along now please.
Canon-Digital IXUS 100 IS
Panasonic-LUMIX - FS 15
or is there a better option for a 12MP & 4X Optical zoom Compact camera?. Any recommendations are appreciated! :)
If there is a better camera in this range, please recommend
Canon
Answer by Jim A on 08 Jan 2010 10:10:31I would recommend to go with canon
Canon Digital IXUS 100 IS Digital Camera - Black (12.1 MP, 3.0x Optical Zoom) 2.5 inch LCD
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Im looking to get a good Pentax DSLR camera. I go camping alot so i need one that is durable and (since i dont have a power source) it needs to be able to use AA bateries. I want fast shutter speed and pretty good picture quality. If there is any other type of camera list that as well.
I was looking at the K2000, K200D, and K-x
I would recommend the Pentax K-x for around $550. Its shutter speed can go up to 1/6000 seconds and it uses four AA batteries. I know someone who's had this camera and I can tell they're really pleased with it.
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The Pentax K-x. Its weather sealed and you can use any K-mount lens made since 1975 on it. Of course there will be some limitations with the older manual focus lenses but you can use them. Please understand that weather sealed does not mean you can take the K-x swimming. Plus, you can get it in Red, White or Black.
Answer by Edwin on 08 Jan 2010 05:28:09Easy choice for me. I would get the Pentax K-x. In fact, I am thinking of getting one as a 2nd camera and I am a happy Nikon user. I just think that it can be a great creative tool at a very good price.
It has great ISO performance, and even outperforms or holds it own against higher end cameras in this category.
Below are some links that I think you will find of great interest.
Hope this helps.
Mark
I bought the camera today and when ever I take photos of people their faces come out super red even if they have tanned skin. I've got it on the auto setting and the face detection and red-eye removal setting. I've played around with the settings abit but nothing is changing.. Please help!
There are often settings on cameras that allow you to draw out a singular color, or have everything in black and white and then chose one color to remain in color. Your problem might be that you have the red setting up, so it draws more red out of everything it captures.
Hope that helped
It may also depend on your lighting. In low light the red in faces is often exaggerated. Have you tried with flash, in sun light? See what happens. If the problem persists even with different lighting take it back and show them for an exchange.
Answer by Jim A on 08 Jan 2010 11:51:02It's need the color setting,that some of the new cameras having this kind of features.Refer your manual
which comes with your camera.I think you will get from there the proper guidelines to set it into the original picture quality.
